It’s raining. Very steadily, very consistently, very wetly. Welcome back to the reality that is England.
For a while, a brief, glorious while, I was, literally, in another country. And I have an important message for everyone – Go To Lisbon.
At the instigation of my nagging son to take a holiday, with him, and because I was told of a recent trip to Portugal by an opinion I respect, it seemed the perfect place to break my eleven year holiday drought.
And, with the ease of http://www., an hour saw flights and AirBandB booked for a 5 day break. I was even checked in a month and a half before the flight out. What could go wrong?
Ryanair.
I know many thousands were significantly inconvenienced, but I did take a disruption of my very overdue holiday plans very personally indeed.
But I am an adult, and I swore a lot, very loudly, and then rebooked with TAP – Air Portugal, and all was back on. The flight out was now 6.00 am, with a 4.00 am check-in. But hey, I did no sleep scenarios as a student. Comfy corner at Heathrow for a quiet couple of hours. What could go wrong?
Terminal 2, Heathrow Airport.
A few hard bench seats, with the arms strategically placed to stop reclining. The only comfortable seating, in Wetherspoons or Costa Coffee, where either closed off and alarmed after closing time, or roped off. What a bunch of ……..
So, after a few joyless hours trying to nap on hard steel tables, bags booked in, body searched – hey, with my body who wouldn’t want to – and a very long walk, we are on a plane!
Two and a half hours later, Lisbon. Same time zone, very different weather, and suddenly life seemed to get brighter. Heading into the city, the progression was as expected, sort of. Wider roads, newer residential areas and shops; narrowing down the closer to the centre.
Which is where it became really interesting. Cobbles, trams, steep narrow roads, and every square with a statue. They do like a statue.
Unfortunately, because of the early flight, we were also too early for the booking-in at our flat. Still, we were staying next to one of the best viewing points in Lisbon, both a bar / restaurant that began our Portuguese education with some local meats and cheeses. Meats good, cheeses – AWESOME! With combinations of cow, goat and sheep milk as source material, the flavours and textured varied – although the sheep only topped the bill.
Early afternoon-ish, and into the flat. And a very different adventure began. Yes, it was a 2 bedroom apartment, with all the amenities. However, because it was in an old house, it approached its layout in a very idiosyncratic way.
Up two very narrow, very steep flights of stairs, one with a section of ceiling that required ducking. Lounge with sofa chair, and dining table for 4. Bedroom 1 with double bed and wardrobe. Kitchen with all the necessary. Further narrow, steep stairs to bedroom 2 in the roof space. Low bed, low ceilings, windows at either end.
A residence with character! Definitely. And the personality emerged over time.
First things first, a little doze to recover some energy.
Now, when a friend firstly recommends Lisbon, then links you with her friend who happens to be, amongst other things, a food writer in Lisbon, and you get some suggestions of where to eat, you accept this as gospel.
So, showers, then out for food.
And so began the adventure of the bathroom. Firstly, there was the slight problem, for around 50% of the adult population, that standing to pee was interesting as the toilet was carefully positioned under a sloping ceiling – lean back and pee forwards. You women have got such easy lives!
And then to the shower. Well, it worked, very well. Scalding hot water – no problem. Tolerable hot water – not so straight forward. The adjustment was microscopic between Ahh! and Ahh! at either end of the hot/cold continuum. What made the whole operation so much more fun – if you are keen on risking your life in the shower – was that, in a 2/3rd length bath, at the exact spot where it was safe to stand whilst trying to adjust the temperature, there was a step. A STEP, IN A BATH. WHY? No really, WHY?
We both survived. We dressed, sprayed on the macho smellies and set out for the first recommended eatery, conveniently about five minutes down the road. And our first Tardis moment.
The common element in all retail outlets, or every variety, in the older parts of Lisbon, is their ability to hide a much larger establishment behind a comparatively narrow and unprepossessing shop front.
And so this Tasca proved to be. A traditional family restaurant, with waiters seemingly chosen for their age – plenty of it – and good looks – none whatsoever, the room seemed to go on further and further, back and back. Tiled walls – this city loves tiles – and brightly lit, the atmosphere was established longevity.
Determined to achieve cultural immersion, we decided to rely on the advice of the waiter, and, where possible, order untranslated items to up the anticipation. Plus wine of course.
The waiter was immediate in his recommendation. Octopus. As the intention was to share dishes, I decided to aim for a ‘surf and turf’ concept, and ordered pork. Yes, I know, genius. Well, almost-ish.
The octopus was SENSATIONAL. A large platter, large grilled octopus legs, small jacket potatoes, fresh herbs, garlic, melted butter. The octopus melted in the mouth, as close to a perfect eating experience as you can get. And so simple. The pork was also good, and more interesting the more you got into it, but nothing would beat the octopus. Love blossomed.
To test the theory of ordering untranslated items, we had two sweets, each individually was not great – combined, knockout. The Cherokoffs, in one night, change the culinary landscape of a nation. Very, very slightly.
What else did our first dining experience teach us? Traditional food, in traditional restaurants, is cooked by women. No men in the kitchen. Also, we had been warned that as soon as you sit down you are given bread, cheese, various meats. These are extras and charged for, and should therefore be ignored. But we were hungry, they tasted great, and were cheap. So they got eaten.
And the octopus was AWESOME!
And so to bed, at the end of a very, very long day. From painful dozing on a metal table to a superb introduction to Portuguese food, it had been an interesting journey, and it had only just begun.
Friday morning. Coffee, bread, cheeses, meats. This continental stuff is easy. Then off to meet our local culinary expert.
Sun shining, walk downhill towards the river, Google maps working well. In a small grassy square, with another excellent coffee, we are joined by our advisor. Two kisses, good gossip, laughs and illumination. Lovely woman, as warm as the weather, bright as the sun, with the sharpness of a person worth knowing.
We bid farewell, with our eating intentions refined and more targeted, and armed with a copy of the latest recipe book – many thanks Lucy Pepper.
Firstly, a quick check round a market, a fantastic blend of higher-end wines and spirits, sweetmeats and other means of removing money from tourists, and the kind of fresh fruit, fish and meat that would grace all and every average Joe’s table. Discovered that Portugal has no real history in spirit production. Interesting, but hey ho.
Next, a scouting out of the next recommended tasca. As unprepossessing as you can get, with the promise of the grumpiest proprietor in town. Lucy’s favourite, so that one is sorted for the evening.
And then back up the hill for the best outlet for Pastéis de Nata. Now, for any that watch Bake-off, pastry week, technical challenge, and Lucy Pepper to boot.
These little beauties are about as far away from a custard tart as you can get. And, even though I saw locals doing it with my own eyes, you cannot eat just one. I suppose those who sample them on a daily basis can do it, but us – two as a minimum, and on consecutive days. And eaten whilst watching them being made. Bliss.
And then, wandering, soaking atmosphere, browsing, shopping. Up and down narrow cobbled roads, with worn-smooth cobbled pavements, and tiles everywhere. The outside of houses covered in tiles – patterned, plain but colour variegated – the Moors left a great tradition (bit of history thrown in there, about all I knew).
And ending up at a castle, well several stacked on top of each other, from ancient Moorish to more recent renovations, and dedicated to St George. Yep, the same one. Not going to get into the fact that he was Greek, or any of the other ‘why is he the patron saint of England?’, but there was definitely no dragon. But awesome views.
And an extremely tasty cod-based dish on the way down. They do understand fish here, although it does confuse me slightly. Everything marine-sourced is cooked from fresh, except cod, which all seems to be salted and cured to be reconstituted when needed. A matter for future research.
After risking our lives once again in the shower – practice does not make perfect in this case – we are off out to test the grumpiness, and culinary offerings, of the next tasca, as recommended by Lucy.
As much as the first was shiny tiled walls and bright spick and span-ness, this was the opposite. Not dirty of course, but small, walls packed from floor to ceiling, and no Euros wasted on unnecessary extras. This was a basic approach to feeding the public.
And as promised, no smiles. ‘Fish please’ was our request. The proprietor held up a large fish opened flat, and 3 large sardines – pilchards? We accept, along with the bread, cheese and meats to keep us ticking over. The cheese really is good, and after downing a bottle of white before we ventured out for the evening, the first carafe of white went down very well.
Once again, the cooking is done by female chefs, and is excellent. As is the 2nd carafe of wine with the octopus as a follow-up. As is the third carafe.
Although there were moments when our host showed a flicker of warmth, we decided that we had not reached the group selfie stage, and set off back up the hill, well fueled with food and wine, and in search of a bar.
Based primarily on the charm of the younger Cherokoff, we soon became involved in a competition between two barmaids regarding who could make the best Mojito. Needless to say, the Cherokoffs won. After an interesting conversation about I know not what with members of the French navy, we headed homeward, retrieving the bottle of almond spirit purchased the previous day, and ensconced ourselves at the nearby viewing point.
Now, at night this seemed to turn into the place where all the young, hip and groovy people hung out, so we were totally at home. However, it soon became apparent that I was rapidly running out of the ability to stay awake, so wandered home, leaving my youthful alter ego to go off to some club with a group of Germans, eventually finding his way home at early o’clock.
The next morning came a little later.
But it still included a couple of Pastéis de Nata. So that was good. And an agreement that the energetic activities would be slightly curtailed.
So, a wander to a contemporary art museum, with an eventual conclusion, after much thought and serious discussion, that although some of the exhibits were good – in our humble opinions – and some were not – in our even humbler opinions – the stuff that is said and written about art, especially contemporary art, is total bollocks.
Having cultured out for the day, we wandered back. A cold beer – equally cheap by the way, and not bad at all – to cool the throats. A shower to test our adventurous resolve, and out again to find sustenance.
And we got the timing a little wrong, Being British, we tend to eat a little earlier in the evening than the locals, so we had no problem, till this moment, in finding a seat – except for one tasca that seemed permanently rammed from the minute it opened till after we had given up for the night. One day we will get in there, but not this trip.
So, we eventually ended up in a restaurant that would not have been our first choice – a bit more polished, and with the feel of an eatery attached to a Harvey’s Store, rather than the other way round. And for those who follow these things, the first fall for the old person.
And, to the background noise of a small group of Americans, we ate our most expensive and least satisfying meal. It was still good, but a bit more appearance over substance. And so the need for puddings! We are coming to the conclusion that the weakness in Portuguese cuisine is puddings. A fair amount of tira, not much masu!
Home. A film. Bed. Still in need of some regeneration from the previous night.
Still, at least that saw the following day – the last full one in Lisbon – at a sensible time. At hot. I will say it again. October and hot.
The local cafe / bar, where we had eaten when we first arrived, seemed a good place to breakfast. Titled an Energy Brunch, it was a mixing bowl sized portion of yoghurt, fruit, honey, granola, fruit coulis. Delicious, but HUGE! The energy title was a theory – it was difficult to move afterwards. But a bit of exercise would help.
So, because we are intelligent individuals, with an understanding of how heat can affect the body and mind, we decided to walk across the majority of the city to visit the Botanical Gardens. Public transport – pah!
And it was a good walk, and it is the best way of absorbing a place and a people, and I relished every step. But it was hot!
And we walked from the old centre of the city, to the newer and more international. Wider roads, well-known names. But all part of the journey.
And worth it. The gardens were lovely. The flowers striking. With wide areas of grass, and a near total absence of dogs. Seemed odd. But hey, we weren’t in Kansas!
We had already decided that our last evening meal would be back where we began, with the octopus. And so it was, and it was just as good. And this time we went all fish, and relished every mouthful.
And so, with a bit of cheese and wine shopping to take home, we called it a night.
An early start. Taxi at 7.30 am. Airport half an hour later. Book in. Walk miles, again. Onto a plane, and away.
In a way, it was sadly too easy to leave.
This is a partial, angled, and very eating-biased version of a very, very good time.
Lisbon is a great city. There are places that seem to have a character that fits, and this was pretty snug.
Nowhere is perfect, but when the body’s needs are satisfied, then it is easier to cope with less satisfactory elements – back to food again. Sorry.
There are still a million other places to see for the first time, but I would be happy to return.
And, I suppose I should credit the company with some of the enjoyment – but he knows that already.
Thanks mate, it was a good time!